Ultimate Flap Wheel Pack
The Pryme ultimate flap wheel pack will suit all of your sanding needs from big to small, and will save you some cash compared to buying them separately.
Removing scratches has never been easier! If you're going for a custom look, the Pryme fiber flap wheels work great for sanding away casting lines too. These wheel have fiber pad in between flaps of sandpaper for smooth and effective material removal.
This pack includes the following 9 wheels:
- 6" Wheel in 80 Grit
- 6" Wheel in 180 Grit
- 6" Wheel in 320 Grit
- 2" Wheel in 80 Grit
- 2" Wheel in 180 Grit
- 2" Wheel in 320 Grit
- 1" Wheel in 80 Grit
- 1" Wheel in 180 Grit
- 1" Wheel in 320 Grit
The 6" wheels are for a bench grinder, and the 2" and 1" wheels are for a die grinder.
- Flap wheels are best used for removing scratches or scrapes, and blending in casting marks.
- Use 80 grit for blending in deep scratches and removal of casting material, 180 grit for light scratches, and 320 grit as a finishing wheel.
- Works great for paint preparation too.
- Creates a consistent finish, with very little waves or warping.
- Leaves behind a brushed look, can be further finished with Pryme Cleaning Wheels.
- Best for aluminum, but can be used on steel, stainless steel, and brass with great results too (steel and brass must be coated afterwards to prevent rust and corrosion).
6" Wheel Specs:
- 1" wide
- Max RPM: 3600
- Available for 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" buffer shaft sizes
Small Wheel Specs:
- 1" wide with a 1/4" shaft (best used with a die grinder, can be used on a high speed drill too)
- Max RPM: 25,000
Click on "Video" tab to see the wheel in use.
-Bench grinder or die grinder not included
-Always wear a dust mask or respirator and proper eye protection while buffing!
Tags: Cleaning, Pad, Wheel, Scuff, Scotch, Abrasive, Sanding, Flap, Drum, Fiber, Buff, Buffing, Scotch Brite Wheel, Scotch Brite Pad, Abrasive Wheel, Abrasive Pad, Buffing Wheel, Buffing Pad
The 6 inch wheel is designed to be used on a buffing machine or bench grinder. It can be used on a machine with a 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4" shaft. For a buffing machine, you'll want at least a 1/2 HP motor that spins at least 3000 RPM. One with an extended shaft is best, so you have lots of clearance to buff your parts.
If you'll be doing lots of buffing, opt for a 3/4 HP motor. Also, a 2 speed (typically 1800/3600 RPM) machine offers more versatility and is a great option.
Personally, this is the machine I use (Baldor motor, will last a lifetime) Click Here
Some cheaper alternatives:
Eastwood Single Speed Click Here
Eastwood Dual Speed Click Here
Great Economy Buffer Click Here
If you have an existing machine but need the big washers that hold the wheels in place Click Here
If you need spacers for the wheel Click Here
To extend the shaft on your buffer Click Here
The smaller wheels are designed to be used on an air die grinder or rotary tool that uses a 1/4" shaft. Could be used on a drill as well. The best results will come with them on a die grinder.
My recommended die grinder Click Here
Some cheaper alternatives:
Ingersoll Rand Grinder Click Here
Neiko Grinder Click Here
If you don't have an air compressor, here is a good electric die grinder Click Here
Lastly, whenever you're doing any sort of grinding or sanding you'll want to use eye and respiratory protection. Trust me, you do not want to be breathing in metal particles!
A great product for protecting yourself is this respirator Click Here
Alternatively, this is also a great respirator to pair up with safety glasses Click Here
Use these filters with the previously mentioned respirators Click Here
If you're doing lots of buffing, I'd recommend getting some sort of ventilation like this exhaust fan that I use Click Here
And of course, always a good idea to wear gloves Click Here
6 Inch Wheel
- Install wheel onto buffer shaft with the sandpaper facing the direction the wheel will be spinning.
- Tighten down the nut until the wheel is secure on the shaft and doesn’t spin (use a spacer if your nut bottoms out on the threads).
- Slide the shaft of the wheel at least 3/4" into tool and tighten lock nut.
- Remove as much grease, oil, and dirt as you can before using the wheels, so you’re not contaminating them.
- Sand or buff in the same direction if you’re going for a brushed look. Intersecting scratches do not look good.
- Try to buff evenly across the part so you don't end up with dips or low spots.
- Use light pressure with the wheel or you'll wear it out prematurely. If you need to apply heavy pressure, you should go to a more aggressive wheel. Refer to buffing chart below.
- In order to make the wheels last as long as possible, stay away from sharp edges. The direction of the wheel should be spinning away from an edge and not towards it. Adjust the orientation of the part accordingly.
- The sweet spot to buff on the wheel is between 4 and 5 o’clock. Look at your buffing machine from the left side, and picture where 4 and 5 o’clock are on the wheels. That is where you will want the part to touch the wheel when buffing.
- Refer to the buffing chart below for the proper wheels to use with each metal type, as well as the steps to achieve the desired finish.
- If you have problems achieving a good finish, refer to the troubleshooting guide below.
- Always wear a dust mask or respirator and eye protection while buffing!
- A clear ceramic coating will protect your part after buffing.
- Steel and magnesium parts must be protected with a coating, bare steel will rust quickly and magnesium corrodes in a matter of hours. Stainless steel and aluminum can be left bare without corrosion issues, as long as you keep the parts clean and out of the weather during storage.
- To achieve a consistent brushed look on larger parts, finish it by hand with a hand pad, going in the same direction you were buffing in.