- How To Use
Removing scratches and scrapes has never been easier! If you're going for a custom look, the Pryme flap wheel works great for sanding away casting lines too. This wheel has fiber pad in between flaps of sandpaper for smooth and effective material removal.
- Mounts on a die grinder.
- Available in 1" and 2" diameter.
- 1" wide with a 1/4" shaft (best used with a die grinder, can be used on a high speed drill too).
- Offered in grits of 80, 180, and 320.
- Use 80 grit for blending in deep scratches and removal of casting material, 180 grit for light scratches, and 320 grit as a finishing wheel.
- Creates a consistent finish, with little waves or warping.
- Works great for paint preparation too.
- Leaves behind a brushed look, can be further finished with Pryme Cleaning Wheels.
- Max RPM: 25,000.
- Best for aluminum, but can be used on steel, stainless steel, and brass with great results too (steel and brass must be coated afterwards to prevent rust and corrosion).
- Sold individually or in packs of 3, 5, and 10 to save you some cash!
Click on "Video" tab to see the wheel in use.
-Die grinder not included.
-Always wear a dust mask or respirator and proper eye protection while buffing!
Tags: Cleaning, Pad, Wheel, Scuff, Scotch, Abrasive, Sanding, Flap, Drum, Fiber, Buff, Buffing, Scotch Brite Wheel, Scotch Brite Pad, Abrasive Wheel, Abrasive Pad, Buffing Wheel, Buffing Pad
This wheel is designed to be used on an air die grinder, or could be used on a drill as well. The best results will come with it on a die grinder.
My recommended die grinder Click Here
Some cheaper alternatives:
Ingersoll Rand Grinder Click Here
Neiko Grinder Click Here
If you don't have an air compressor, here is a good electric die grinder Click Here
Whenever you're doing any sort of grinding or sanding you'll want to use eye and respiratory protection. Trust me, you do not want to be breathing in metal particles! At the bare minimum, wear a dust mask and glasses.
A great product for protecting yourself is this respirator Click Here
Alternatively, this is also a great respirator to pair up with safety glasses Click Here
Use these filters with the previously mentioned respirators Click Here
If you're doing lots of buffing, I'd recommend getting some sort of ventilation like this exhaust fan that I use Click Here
And of course, always a good idea to wear gloves Click Here
- Slide the shaft of the wheel into the tool at least 3/4” deep and tighten lock nut.
- Remove as much grease, oil, and dirt as you can before using the wheels, so you’re not contaminating them.
- Sand or buff in the same direction if you’re going for a brushed look. Intersecting scratches do not look good.
- Try to buff evenly across the part so you don't end up with dips or low spots.
- Use light pressure with the wheel or you'll wear it out prematurely. If you need to apply heavy pressure, you should go to a more aggressive wheel. Refer to buffing chart below.
- Applying a lubricant such as WD40 or Maxima MPPL to the part during sanding will help acheive a smoother finish.
- In order to make the wheels last as long as possible, stay away from sharp edges. The direction of the wheel should be spinning away from an edge and not towards it. Adjust the orientation of the part accordingly.
- Refer to the buffing chart below for the proper wheels to use with each metal type, as well as the steps to achieve the desired finish.
- If you have problems achieving a good finish, refer to the troubleshooting guide below.
- Always wear a dust mask or respirator and eye protection while buffing!
- A clear ceramic coating will protect your part after buffing.
- Steel and magnesium parts must be protected with a coating, bare steel will rust quickly and magnesium corrodes in a matter of hours. Stainless steel and aluminum can be left bare without corrosion issues, as long as you keep the parts clean and out of the weather during storage.
- To achieve a consistent brushed look on larger parts, finish it by hand with a hand pad, going in the same direction you were buffing in.