- How To Use
The Pryme cleaning wheel pack includes (1) fine grade wheel and (1) rough grade wheel. Available in 4", 6", and 8" diameter.
- Mounts on a bench grinder / buffing machine, but can be used on a drill with decent results too.
- Use the rough wheel for scratch removal and aggressive sanding, use the fine wheel for a smooth, brushed type finish.
- Works great for paint preparation too.
- Best for aluminum, but can be used on steel, stainless steel, and brass with great results (steel and brass must be coated afterwards to prevent rust and corrosion).
- Proudly made in the USA.
- The larger the wheel, the longer it will last. The smaller wheels work better in tighter areas however and also cost a bit less.
Fine Wheel Specs:
Bring your old parts back from the dead with a Pryme fine cleaning wheel. Cleans, brightens, and leaves behind a brushed type finish.
- Comparable to 400 grit sandpaper
- 3/8" thick x 1/2" center hole (can be used on 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" buffer shaft sizes, just thread the wheel onto the shaft)
- Max RPM: 3600
Rough Wheel Specs:
For those of you looking to smooth out scratches, scrapes, or casting lines, the Pryme rough grade wheel is the ticket! Also works great for removal of rust, corrosion, and paint.
- Comparable to 180 grit sandpaper
- 3/8" thick x 1/2" center hole (can be used on 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" buffer shaft sizes)
- Max RPM: 3600
Click on "Video" tab to see the wheels in use.
-Buffer motor or stand not included
-Always wear a dust mask or respirator and proper eye protection while buffing!
Check out the videos below of the wheels working their magic.
Tags: Cleaning, Pad, Wheel, Scuff, Scotch, Abrasive, Buff, Buffing, Scotch Brite Wheel, Scotch Brite Pad, Abrasive Wheel, Abrasive Pad, Buffing Wheel, Buffing Pad
These wheels are designed to be used on a buffing machine or bench grinder. They can be used on a machine with a 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4" shaft. For a buffing machine, you'll want at least a 1/2 HP motor that spins at 3000 RPM. One with an extended shaft is best, so you have lots of clearance to buff your parts.
If you'll be doing lots of buffing, opt for a 3/4 HP motor. Also, a 2 speed (typically 1800/3600 RPM) machine offers more versatility and is a great option.
Personally, this is the machine I use (Baldor motor, will last a lifetime) Click Here
Some great alternatives:
Eastwood Single Speed Click Here
Eastwood Dual Speed Click Here
Great Economy Buffer Click Here
If you have an existing machine but need the big washers that hold the wheels in place Click Here
To space the wheels away from the machine for more clearance Click Here
To extend the shaft on your buffer Click Here
To use the wheels on a drill Click Here
Whenever you're doing any sort of grinding or sanding you'll want to use eye and respiratory protection. Trust me, you do not want to be breathing in metal particles! At the bare minimum, wear a dust mask and glasses.
A great product for protecting yourself is this respirator Click Here
Alternatively, this is also a great respirator to pair up with safety glasses Click Here
Use these filters with the previously mentioned respirators Click Here
If you're doing lots of buffing, I'd recommend getting some sort of ventilation like this exhaust fan that I use Click Here
And of course, always a good idea to wear gloves Click Here
- Secure wheel to buffer shaft with a flange on either side. On some wheels, you may have to spin the wheel to help it onto the shaft on the larger 5/8" and 3/4" shaft sizes.
- Tighten down the nut until the wheel is secure on the shaft and doesn’t spin (use a spacer if your nut bottoms out on the threads).
- Remove as much grease, oil, and dirt as you can before using the wheels, so you’re not contaminating them.
- Sand or buff in the same direction if you’re going for a brushed look. Intersecting scratches do not look good.
- Try to buff evenly across the part so you don't end up with dips or low spots.
- Use light pressure with the wheel or you'll wear it out prematurely. If you need to apply heavy pressure, you should go to a more aggressive wheel. Refer to buffing chart below.
- In order to make the wheels last as long as possible, stay away from sharp edges. The direction of the wheel should be spinning away from an edge and not towards it. Adjust the orientation of the part accordingly.
- The sweet spot to buff on the wheel is between 4 and 5 o’clock. Look at your buffing machine from the left side, and picture where 4 and 5 o’clock are on the wheels. That is where you will want the part to touch the wheel when buffing.
- Refer to the buffing chart below for the proper wheels to use with each metal type, as well as the steps to achieve the desired finish.
- If you have problems achieving a good finish, refer to the troubleshooting guide below.
- Always wear a dust mask or respirator and eye protection while buffing!
- A clear ceramic coating will protect your part after buffing.
- Steel and magnesium parts must be protected with a coating, bare steel will rust quickly and magnesium corrodes in a matter of hours. Stainless steel and aluminum can be left bare without corrosion issues, as long as you keep the parts clean and out of the weather during storage.
- To achieve a consistent brushed look on larger parts, finish it by hand with a hand pad, going in the same direction you were buffing in.
Great pads!! I've learned a great deal about metal polishing from your videos!!
Thanks for sharing your feedback Steve! It's great to hear the videos have been helpful. Looking forward to working with you again.
Cleaning Wheel Pack
Thanks for your review Daniel!
These pads are awesome. You watch a video of them being used and think, there’s no way it can turn out that well that so easily, but it really is easy with these. Will be stocking up!
Thanks for your feedback Drew, it's great to hear you're happy with the products! Looks like you've been putting the wheels to work! Your business is greatly appreciated.