- How To Use
Removing scratches has never been easier! If you're going for a custom look, the Pryme flap wheel works great for sanding away casting lines too. This wheel has fiber pad in between flaps of sandpaper for smooth and effective material removal.
- Mounts on a bench grinder / buffing machine
- 6" diameter
- 1" wide
- Offered in grits of 80, 180, and 320
- Use 80 grit for blending in deep scratches and removal of casting material, 180 grit for light scratches, and 320 grit as a finishing wheel
- Creates a consistent finish, with very little waves or warping
- Leaves behind a brushed look, can be further finished with Pryme Cleaning Wheels
- Best for aluminum, but can be used on steel, stainless steel, and brass with great results too (steel and brass must be coated afterwards to prevent rust and corrosion)
- Works great for paint preparation too
- Max RPM: 3600
- Available for 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" buffer shaft sizes
- Sold individually or in a pack of 3 to save you some cash!
Click on "Video" tab to see the wheel in use.
Buffer motor or stand not included
Always wear a dust mask or respirator and proper eye protection while buffing!
Check out the video below of the wheel in action!
Tags: Cleaning, Pad, Wheel, Scuff, Scotch, Abrasive, Sanding, Flap, Drum, Fiber, Buff, Buffing, Scotch Brite Wheel, Scotch Brite Pad, Abrasive Wheel, Abrasive Pad, Buffing Wheel, Buffing Pad
These wheels are designed to be used on a buffing machine or bench grinder. They can be used on a machine with a 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4" shaft. For a buffing machine, you'll want at least a 1/2 HP motor that spins at 3000 RPM. One with an extended shaft is best, so you have lots of clearance to buff your parts.
If you'll be doing lots of buffing, opt for a 3/4 HP motor. Also, a 2 speed (typically 1800/3600 RPM) machine offers more versatility and is a great option.
Personally, this is the machine I use (Baldor motor, will last a lifetime) Click Here
Some great alternatives:
Eastwood Single Speed Click Here
Eastwood Dual Speed Click Here
Great Economy Buffer Click Here
If you have an existing machine but need the big washers that hold the wheels in place Click Here
To space the wheels away from the machine for more clearance Click Here
To extend the shaft on your buffer Click Here
To use the wheels on a drill Click Here
Whenever you're doing any sort of grinding or sanding you'll want to use eye and respiratory protection. Trust me, you do not want to be breathing in metal particles! At the bare minimum, wear a dust mask and glasses.
A great product for protecting yourself is this respirator Click Here
Alternatively, this is also a great respirator to pair up with safety glasses Click Here
Use these filters with the previously mentioned respirators Click Here
If you're doing lots of buffing, I'd recommend getting some sort of ventilation like this exhaust fan that I use Click Here
And of course, always a good idea to wear gloves Click Here
- Secure wheel to buffer shaft with the sandpaper facing the direction the wheel will be spinning.
- Tighten down the nut until the wheel is secure on the shaft and doesn’t spin (use a spacer if your nut bottoms out on the threads).
- Remove as much grease, oil, and dirt as you can before using the wheels, so you’re not contaminating them.
- Sand or buff in the same direction if you’re going for a brushed look. Intersecting scratches do not look good.
- Try to buff evenly across the part so you don't end up with dips or low spots.
- Use light pressure with the wheel or you'll wear it out prematurely. If you need to apply heavy pressure, you should go to a more aggressive wheel. Refer to buffing chart below.
- Applying a lubricant such as WD40 or Maxima MPPL to the part during sanding will help acheive a smoother finish.
- In order to make the wheels last as long as possible, stay away from sharp edges. The direction of the wheel should be spinning away from an edge and not towards it. Adjust the orientation of the part accordingly.
- The sweet spot to buff on the wheel is between 4 and 5 o’clock. Look at your buffing machine from the left side, and picture where 4 and 5 o’clock are on the wheels. That is where you will want the part to touch the wheel when buffing.
- Refer to the buffing chart below for the proper wheels to use with each metal type, as well as the steps to achieve the desired finish.
- If you have problems achieving a good finish, refer to the troubleshooting guide below.
- Always wear a dust mask or respirator and eye protection while buffing!
- A clear ceramic coating will protect your part after buffing.
- Steel and magnesium parts must be protected with a coating, bare steel will rust quickly and magnesium corrodes in a matter of hours. Stainless steel and aluminum can be left bare without corrosion issues, as long as you keep the parts clean and out of the weather during storage.
- To achieve a consistent brushed look on larger parts, finish it by hand with a hand pad, going in the same direction you were buffing in.
Looks great Andre! Thanks for sharing your review, your business is much appreciated!
Works wonders on old and crusty parts definitely the best product ive found for doing this type of work
Looks great Jacob, thanks for sharing those pictures. Your business is much appreciated.
I got a benchgrinder to modify to use these. I checked the shank size and ordered wheels to fit. Worked a treat. The wheels are great - a grimy old kickstarter can look better than new in less than 5 minutes. I also really appreciated the handwritten note from Cam - thanks so much!
Thanks for sharing your review Charlie! Happy to hear the wheels are working well for you. Your feedback is much appreciated.
I appreciate you sharing your review of the flap wheel! Thanks for your business Jacob.