V2 Fine Cleaning Wheel

Check out the video below of the wheel in action!

Tags: Cleaning, Pad, Wheel, Scuff, Scotch, Abrasive, Buff, Buffing, Scotch Brite Wheel, Scotch Brite Pad, Abrasive Wheel, Abrasive Pad, Buffing Wheel, Buffing Pad

These wheels are designed to be used on a buffing machine or bench grinder. They can be used on a machine with a 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4" shaft. For a buffing machine, you'll want at least a 1/2 HP motor that spins at 3000 RPM. One with an extended shaft is best, so you have lots of clearance to buff your parts.

If you'll be doing lots of buffing, opt for a 3/4 HP motor. Also, a 2 speed (typically 1800/3600 RPM) machine offers more versatility and is a great option.

Personally, this is the machine I use (Baldor motor, will last a lifetime) Click Here

Some great alternatives:

Eastwood Single Speed Click Here

Eastwood Dual Speed Click Here

Great Economy Buffer Click Here

If you have an existing machine but need the big washers that hold the wheels in place Click Here

To space the wheels away from the machine for more clearance Click Here

To extend the shaft on your buffer Click Here

To use the wheels on a drill Click Here

Whenever you're doing any sort of grinding or sanding you'll want to use eye and respiratory protection. Trust me, you do not want to be breathing in metal particles! At the bare minimum, wear a dust mask and glasses.

A great product for protecting yourself is this respirator Click Here

Alternatively, this is also a great respirator to pair up with safety glasses Click Here

Use these filters with the previously mentioned respirators Click Here

If you're doing lots of buffing, I'd recommend getting some sort of ventilation like this exhaust fan that I use Click Here

And of course, always a good idea to wear gloves Click Here

Installation

• Secure wheel to buffer shaft with a flange on either side. On some wheels, you may have to spin the wheel to help it onto the shaft on the larger 5/8" and 3/4" shaft sizes.
• Tighten down the nut until the wheel is secure on the shaft and doesn’t spin (use a spacer if your nut bottoms out on the threads).

Buffing

• Remove as much grease, oil, and dirt as you can before using the wheels, so you’re not contaminating them.
• Sand or buff in the same direction if you’re going for a brushed look. Intersecting scratches do not look good.
• Try to buff evenly across the part so you don't end up with dips or low spots.
• Use light pressure with the wheel or you'll wear it out prematurely. If you need to apply heavy pressure, you should go to a more aggressive wheel. Refer to buffing chart below.
• In order to make the wheels last as long as possible, stay away from sharp edges. The direction of the wheel should be spinning away from an edge and not towards it. Adjust the orientation of the part accordingly. 
• The sweet spot to buff on the wheel is between 4 and 5 o’clock. Look at your buffing machine from the left side, and picture where 4 and 5 o’clock are on the wheels. That is where you will want the part to touch the wheel when buffing.
• Refer to the buffing chart below for the proper wheels to use with each metal type, as well as the steps to achieve the desired finish.
• If you have problems achieving a good finish, refer to the troubleshooting guide below.
• Always wear a dust mask or respirator and eye protection while buffing!

After Buffing:

• A clear ceramic coating will protect your part after buffing.
• Steel and magnesium parts must be protected with a coating, bare steel will rust quickly and magnesium corrodes in a matter of hours. Stainless steel and aluminum can be left bare without corrosion issues, as long as you keep the parts clean and out of the weather during storage.
• To achieve a consistent brushed look on larger parts, finish it by hand with a hand pad, going in the same direction you were buffing in.