- How To Use
- Intro To Polishing
Take your parts to the next level with the Pryme polishing wheels! If you're going for a mirror finish, these are the answer. Must be used with a polishing compound. Please refer to the chart below to determine which wheels are best for your application.
- Mounts on bench grinder / buffing machine
- 8" diameter
- 1/2" wide
- Max RPM: 3600
- Available for 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" buffer shaft sizes
- Sold individually or in packs to save you some cash!
-#1 Polishing Wheel is best used with the Black Polishing Compound for the first stage of polishing on steels and soft metals.
-#2 Polishing Wheel works great in combination with the Green Polishing Compound as the second stage of polishing on steels. Also pairs well with the Brown Polishing Compound on the second stage of polishing on soft metals such as aluminum.
-#3 Polishing Wheel is to be used with the White Polishing Compound in the final stage of polishing for steels. Can also be used with the Blue Polishing Compound for the final polishing stage on soft metals.
Keep in mind, if you are looking to polish to a full mirror finish, you will need to do all 3 stages of polishing wheels. You cannot go right to the final step and expect a full mirror shine. Also, if your part has existing scratches or a sand cast finish they will need to smoothed out with flap wheels. The flap wheel step can be skipped if your part does not have deep scratches or casting texture.
Click on "Video" tab to see the wheels in use.
Bench grinder not included.
Always wear a dust mask or respirator and proper eye protection while buffing!
Click here to purchase the wheels in a kit with compounds
Polishing compounds are available here
Check out the video below for a full review of the polishing supplies.
Tags: Buffing Wheels, Cotton Wheels, Sisal Wheel, Sewn Wheel, Sanding Wheel, Abrasive Wheel, Loose Wheel, Canton Flannel Wheel, Buffer Wheel, Polishing Pad, Blue, Green, Black, Brown, White, Emery, Tripoli, Stainless, Jewlers, Rouge
- Secure wheel to buffer shaft with a flange or washer on either side.
- Tighten down the nut until the wheel is secure on the shaft and doesn’t spin (use a spacer if your nut bottoms out on the threads).
- It is normal for the wheels to shed during it’s first use. After a minute of buffing, the wheel will break in and be ready for use.
- Each polishing wheel must be used with a polishing compound. The compound carries the abrasive which helps polish the part.
- Press the compound bar into the wheel as it’s spinning, only applying enough pressure for the compound to melt onto the wheel.
- Use compound sparingly, hold the compound onto the wheel for about 2-3 seconds. Once color appears on the wheel, you are ready to polish.
- Re apply compound to the wheel when the polishing effect lessens. Application every 1 to 2 minutes is a good interval.
- For best results, each wheel should only be used with one compound. Mixing compounds on a wheel will produce an inconsistent finish.
- Occasionally use a wheel rake or a sharp edge to break up the old compound within the wheel. This will allow for new compound to bed into the wheel.
- Refer to the polishing chart for the proper wheels and compounds to use with each metal type, as well as the steps to achieve the desired finish.
- Remove all grease, oil, and dirt from part before polishing, so you’re not contaminating the wheels.
- Start with the first wheel and compound that is recommended in the polishing chart. If your part does not have scratches or a rough cast finish you can skip ahead to the remaining steps.
- Make sure you follow each remaining step in the chart. For example, if you start at step 2, you must also do steps 3 and 4 to achieve a good finish.
- In steps 1 and 2, make sure you have all visible scratches smoothed out before proceeding. A lubricant such as WD40 or Maxima MPPL helps achieve a smoother finish in step 1 with a flap wheel.
- Buffing in different directions and angles will achieve a more uniform finish. You may end up with streaks or leftover scratches if you buff in only one direction. Buff in a different direction during each step.
- Use light/medium pressure with the wheels and don’t spend much time in one area, you could end up with a dip. Try to buff evenly across the part.
- The sweet spot to buff on the wheel is between 4 and 5 o’clock. Look at your buffing machine from the left side, and picture where 4 and 5 o’clock are on the wheels, it will be near the bottom. That is where you will want the part to touch the wheel when buffing.
- In order to make the wheels last as long as possible and to prevent flinging the part out of your hands, be careful around sharp edges. The wheel should be spinning away from an edge and not towards it.
- Buffing against the direction the wheel is spinning will cut quicker, buffing with the direction of the wheel will give a smoother finish.
- Always wear a dust mask or respirator and eye protection while buffing!
- If you have problems while buffing, refer to the troubleshooting guide.
- After final polishing, wipe off any leftover compound with a soft microfiber towel. A liquid polish is helpful in removing remaining compound as well.
- To keep up on the shine, use a liquid polish on a soft microfiber towel.
- A clear ceramic coating will protect your part after buffing.
- Steel and magnesium parts must be protected with a coating, bare steel will rust quickly and magnesium corrodes in a matter of hours. Stainless steel and aluminum can be left bare without corrosion issues, as long as you keep the parts clean and out of the weather during storage.
These wheels are designed to be used on a buffing machine or bench grinder. They can be used on a machine with a 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4" shaft. For a buffing machine, you'll want at least a 1/2 HP motor that spins at 3000 RPM. One with an extended shaft is best, so you have lots of clearance to buff your parts.
If you'll be doing lots of buffing, opt for a 3/4 HP motor. Also, a 2 speed (typically 1800/3600 RPM) machine offers more versatility and is a great option.
Personally, this is the machine I use (Baldor motor, will last a lifetime) Click Here
Some great alternatives:
Eastwood Single Speed Click Here
Eastwood Dual Speed Click Here
Great Economy Buffer Click Here
If you have an existing machine but need the big washers that hold the wheels in place Click Here
To space the wheels away from the machine for more clearance Click Here
To extend the shaft on your buffer Click Here
To use the wheels on a drill Click Here
Whenever you're doing any sort of grinding or sanding you'll want to use eye and respiratory protection. Trust me, you do not want to be breathing in metal particles! At the bare minimum, wear a dust mask and glasses.
A great product for protecting yourself is this respirator Click Here
Alternatively, this is also a great respirator to pair up with safety glasses Click Here
Use these filters with the previously mentioned respirators Click Here
If you're doing lots of buffing, I'd recommend getting some sort of ventilation like this exhaust fan that I use Click Here
And of course, always a good idea to wear gloves Click Here
What exactly is polishing?
Polishing is essentially removing surface scratches and imperfections to the point where the finish is reflective. When a part is dull looking, it has scratches that prevent light from reflecting off of it. The act of polishing is to smooth out these scratches so light can reflect off the part and give you that brilliant shine. This process can be done on metals, such as steel, stainless steel, aluminum, copper, titanium, and brass. Softer materials such as plastic and wood can be polished as well.
What is the process of polishing?
The first step is to remove any dirt, grease, paint, rust, corrosion, or anything on the surface of the part. This can be done with chemical cleaners or abrasive products. The next step is to smooth out deep scratches and scrapes, as well as blend in casting marks or “sand cast.” A part with a sand cast finish will not reflect light since it has millions of dimples on the surface. These need to be smoothed over. The quickest way to do this step is with an abrasive wheel on a buffing machine/bench grinder or die grinder. Once the major scratches are removed, the finer scratches are buffed out. Sometimes these scratches are not visible to the naked eye, and they must be polished smooth with a softer wheel. The wheels used in this step are commonly made from cotton or flannel, and are combined with a compound, a wax like substance. The compound carries the abrasive that helps smooth the surface. There are a few different polishing wheels and compounds that make up this step. Each type of metal uses a different set of wheels and compounds.
How long will a polished finish last?
It all depends on how much the part is being used and how well it’s maintained. A polished part sitting in a garage will need an occasional touch up. However, a part that is exposed to dirt and water and being used weekly will result in scratches and stains, but a weekly hand polish will keep the finish in good shape. A protectant can be applied to help extend the life of the finish however.
What can I do to protect a polished finish?
Certain metals will need more protection than others. Steel is very vulnerable to rust, so it will need protection such as a clear ceramic coating. Magnesium corrodes very quickly, and it will need a coating as well. Other metals that are less prone to rust and corrosion such as stainless steel or aluminum can be left bare, but will still require some upkeep. A liquid polish can be used for a touch up on these metals. If you plan on using the part frequently, a ceramic coating is recommended on all metals.
It is advised that you wear protective equipment while polishing. Some of the compounds and metal particles that are airborne while polishing can be harmful to your lungs and skin over time with no protection. Don’t take it lightly. Wear a dust mask or respirator, safety glasses, and thick gloves. A face shield and shop apron are helpful as well.