- How To Use
Bring your old parts back from the dead with a Pryme fine cleaning wheel. Your buddies will be so impressed they'll be stealing your wheels behind your back so you better stock up! Available in 4", 6", and 8" diameter.
- Mounts on a bench grinder / buffing machine, but can be used on a drill as well.
- Comparable to 400 grit sandpaper.
- 3/8" thick x 1/2" center hole (can be used on 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" buffer shafts).
- Best for aluminum, but can be used on steel, stainless steel, and brass with great results.
- Achieves a brushed type finish, use the Pryme Rough Wheels for scratch removal and material shaping.
- Works great for paint preparation too.
- Max RPM: 3600.
- Sold individually, or in packs of 3, 5, 10, and 20 to save you some cash!
- Cleans and brightens metals such as aluminum, steels, titanium, brass, and others (steel and brass must be coated afterwards to prevent rust and corrosion).
- Proudly made in the USA.
- The larger the wheel, the longer it will last. The smaller wheels work better in tighter areas however and also cost a bit less.
-Buffer motor or stand not included
-Always wear a dust mask or respirator and proper eye protection while buffing!
Check out the video below of the wheel working it's magic. Tags: Cleaning, Pad, Wheel, Scuff, Scotch, Abrasive, Buff, Buffing, Scotch Brite Wheel, Scotch Brite Pad, Abrasive Wheel, Abrasive Pad, Buffing Wheel, Buffing Pad
These wheels are designed to be used on a buffing machine or bench grinder. They can be used on a machine with a 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4" shaft. For a buffing machine, you'll want at least a 1/2 HP motor that spins at 3000 RPM. One with an extended shaft is best, so you have lots of clearance to buff your parts.
If you'll be doing lots of buffing, opt for a 3/4 HP motor. Also, a 2 speed (typically 1800/3600 RPM) machine offers more versatility and is a great option.
Personally, this is the machine I use (Baldor motor, will last a lifetime) Click Here
Some great alternatives:
Eastwood Single Speed Click Here
Eastwood Dual Speed Click Here
Great Economy Buffer Click Here
If you have an existing machine but need the big washers that hold the wheels in place Click Here
To space the wheels away from the machine for more clearance Click Here
To extend the shaft on your buffer Click Here
To use the wheels on a drill Click Here
Whenever you're doing any sort of grinding or sanding you'll want to use eye and respiratory protection. Trust me, you do not want to be breathing in metal particles! At the bare minimum, wear a dust mask and glasses.
A great product for protecting yourself is this respirator Click Here
Alternatively, this is also a great respirator to pair up with safety glasses Click Here
Use these filters with the previously mentioned respirators Click Here
If you're doing lots of buffing, I'd recommend getting some sort of ventilation like this exhaust fan that I use Click Here
And of course, always a good idea to wear gloves Click Here
- Secure wheel to buffer shaft with a flange on either side. On some wheels, you may have to spin the wheel to help it onto the shaft on the larger 5/8" and 3/4" shaft sizes.
- Tighten down the nut until the wheel is secure on the shaft and doesn’t spin (use a spacer if your nut bottoms out on the threads).
- Remove as much grease, oil, and dirt as you can before using the wheels, so you’re not contaminating them.
- Sand or buff in the same direction if you’re going for a brushed look. Intersecting scratches do not look good.
- Try to buff evenly across the part so you don't end up with dips or low spots.
- Use light pressure with the wheel or you'll wear it out prematurely. If you need to apply heavy pressure, you should go to a more aggressive wheel. Refer to buffing chart below.
- In order to make the wheels last as long as possible, stay away from sharp edges. The direction of the wheel should be spinning away from an edge and not towards it. Adjust the orientation of the part accordingly.
- The sweet spot to buff on the wheel is between 4 and 5 o’clock. Look at your buffing machine from the left side, and picture where 4 and 5 o’clock are on the wheels. That is where you will want the part to touch the wheel when buffing.
- Refer to the buffing chart below for the proper wheels to use with each metal type, as well as the steps to achieve the desired finish.
- If you have problems achieving a good finish, refer to the troubleshooting guide below.
- Always wear a dust mask or respirator and eye protection while buffing!
- A clear ceramic coating will protect your part after buffing.
- Steel and magnesium parts must be protected with a coating, bare steel will rust quickly and magnesium corrodes in a matter of hours. Stainless steel and aluminum can be left bare without corrosion issues, as long as you keep the parts clean and out of the weather during storage.
- To achieve a consistent brushed look on larger parts, finish it by hand with a hand pad, going in the same direction you were buffing in.
Everything I ordered has worked well past my expectations! Great product from great people.
Thanks for sharing your feedback on the products, happy to hear they're making a difference for you. Your business is greatly appreciated!
Great work on those parts Oliver! Love to see the results after the wheels, hard to beat that clean brushed look. Your business is much appreciated.
These are a god send, these shorten the work time. A must have.
Thanks for the awesome review David! Happy to hear the wheels have been making a difference for you.
These things work great!! I bought several cleaning/polishing wheels from Cameron and have NOT been disappointed!
Looks great Jay, thanks for sharing your feedback on the wheels! Your business is much appreciated.
the cleaning wheels worked awesome, made some bits on my bike look brand new, shipping to Canada was also quicker than expected so I appreciated that as well.
Thanks for the great review Stanley! I'm happy to hear the wheels have been working well for you. Looking forward to doing business with you again.