- How To Use
The Pryme cleaning wheel pack includes (1) fine grade wheel and (1) coarse grade wheel. Available in 4", 6", and 8" diameter.
- Mounts on a bench grinder / buffing machine, but can be used on a drill with decent results too.
- Use the coarse wheel for scratch removal and aggressive sanding, use the fine wheel for a smooth, brushed type finish.
- Works great for paint preparation too.
- Best for aluminum, but can be used on steel, stainless steel, and brass with great results (steel and brass must be coated afterwards to prevent rust and corrosion).
- Proudly made in the USA.
- The larger the wheel, the longer it will last. The smaller wheels work better in tighter areas however and also cost a bit less.
Fine Wheel Specs:
Bring your old parts back from the dead with a Pryme fine cleaning wheel. Cleans, brightens, and leaves behind a brushed type finish.
- Comparable to 400 grit sandpaper
- 3/8" thick x 1/2" center hole (can be used on 1/2" (12.7mm), 5/8" (16mm), and 3/4" (19mm) buffer shaft sizes, just thread the wheel onto the shaft)
- Max RPM: 3600
Coarse Wheel Specs:
For those of you looking to smooth out scratches, scrapes, or casting lines, the Pryme coarse grade wheel is the ticket! Also works great for removal of rust, corrosion, and paint.
- Comparable to 180 grit sandpaper
- 3/8" thick x 1/2" center hole (can be used on 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" buffer shaft sizes)
- Max RPM: 3600
Click on "Video" tab to see the wheels in use.
-Buffer motor or stand not included
-Always wear a dust mask or respirator and proper eye protection while buffing!
Check out the videos below of the wheels working their magic.
Tags: Cleaning, Pad, Wheel, Scuff, Scotch, Abrasive, Buff, Buffing, Scotch Brite Wheel, Scotch Brite Pad, Abrasive Wheel, Abrasive Pad, Buffing Wheel, Buffing Pad
These wheels are designed to be used on a buffing machine or bench grinder. They can be used on a machine with a 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4" shaft. For a buffing machine, you'll want at least a 1/2 HP motor that spins at 3000 RPM. One with an extended shaft is best, so you have lots of clearance to buff your parts. If you'll be doing lots of buffing, opt for a 3/4 HP motor.
2 Speed 3/4 HP Baldor Buffer (will last a lifetime)
If you have a machine but need the big washers that hold the wheels in place Click Here
To space the wheels away from the machine for more clearance Click Here
To extend the shaft on your buffer Click Here
To use the wheels on a drill Click Here
Whenever you're doing any sort of grinding or sanding you'll want to use eye and respiratory protection. Trust us, you do not want to be breathing in metal particles! At the bare minimum, wear a dust mask and glasses.
A great product for protecting yourself is this respirator Click Here
Alternatively, this is also a great respirator to pair up with safety glasses Click Here
Use these filters with the previously mentioned respirators Click Here
If you're doing lots of buffing, it's recommended to get some sort of ventilation like this exhaust fan that we use Click Here
- Secure wheel to buffer shaft with a flange on either side. On some wheels, you may have to spin the wheel to help it onto the shaft on the larger 5/8" and 3/4" shaft sizes.
- Tighten down the nut until the wheel is secure on the shaft and doesn’t spin (use a spacer if your nut bottoms out on the threads).
- Remove as much grease, oil, and dirt as you can before using the wheels, so you’re not contaminating them.
- Sand or buff in the same direction if you’re going for a brushed look. Intersecting scratches do not look good.
- Try to buff evenly across the part so you don't end up with dips or low spots.
- Use light pressure with the wheel or you'll wear it out prematurely. If you need to apply heavy pressure, you should go to a more aggressive wheel. Refer to buffing chart below.
- In order to make the wheels last as long as possible, stay away from sharp edges. The direction of the wheel should be spinning away from an edge and not towards it. Adjust the orientation of the part accordingly.
- The sweet spot to buff on the wheel is between 4 and 5 o’clock. Look at your buffing machine from the left side, and picture where 4 and 5 o’clock are on the wheels. That is where you will want the part to touch the wheel when buffing.
- Refer to the buffing chart below for the proper wheels to use with each metal type, as well as the steps to achieve the desired finish.
- If you have problems achieving a good finish, refer to the troubleshooting guide below.
- Always wear a dust mask or respirator and eye protection while buffing!
- A clear ceramic coating will protect your part after buffing.
- Steel and magnesium parts must be protected with a coating, bare steel will rust quickly and magnesium corrodes in a matter of hours. Stainless steel and aluminum can be left bare without corrosion issues, as long as you keep the parts clean and out of the weather during storage.
- To achieve a consistent brushed look on larger parts, finish it by hand with a hand pad, going in the same direction you were buffing in.
My wheels just came in the mail a few hours ago and I can tell already I'll be a customer for life. They make old parts look brand new again in no time flat.
Thanks Cam, awesome stuff!
Work great. Long lasting and doesn’t wear your fingers to the bone it actually takes the corrosion off.
These are so good I’d still buy them at twice the price! Most important tool that you can have for restorations. A must have!
Great work on those parts Richard, thanks for sharing pictures along with your review! Your feedback is greatly appreciated! Happy to see the wheels are working well for you. Thanks for supporting Pryme!
Bought the pack to shine up engine cases on my kx125. Cleaning wheels work really well with the spacer on my bench grinder. Only cons are that the wheels can't get in that many tight spots and the fine wheel gets pretty worn down. Overall worth the price and a great product.
Your feedback is much appreciated Logan! Happy to see the wheels are working well for you. For getting into tighter areas, you can use our mini cleaning wheel kit found here:
To get the most life out of the wheels, only use them with light pressure. If you feel you need to apply heavy pressure, go to the coarse wheel first, then follow up with the fine wheel.
Thanks for supporting Pryme!
If your someone who likes to work in your garage or shop restoring things or just bringing things back to good usable condition Cam's cleaning pads are a must have item, I use them on everything and they were absolutely essential in my latest bike build which was the restoration of a friend's 99 ATK 260LQ, only U.S. dirt bike manufacturer except for the failed Cannondale, I had a lot of fun with this project as I did several upgrades to it also plus I got to spend my friend's money, here's a few pics.
Incredible job restoring that ATK Robert, happy to hear the wheels had a hand in your project! Thank you for sharing those pictures along with your review! Your support of Pryme is greatly appreciated.