8 Inch Rough Cleaning Wheel
For those of you looking to smooth out scratches, scrapes, or casting lines, the Pryme rough grade wheel is the ticket! Also works great for removal of rust, corrosion, and paint. After using this wheel you'll want to buff out everything in sight, so I'd recommend grabbing a few wheels for safe measure.
- Comparable to 120 grit sandpaper
- 8" diameter x 7/16" thick x 1/2" arbor hole
- Can be used on aluminum, steel, stainless steel, and brass with great results
- Works best for scratch removal and aggressive sanding, for final finish use the Pryme Fine Cleaning Wheel
- Max RPM: 3600
- Sold individually or in a pack of 3, 5, or 10
- Made in the USA
- For best results, use on 1/2 HP+ buffer or bench grinder. Can be used on a drill with decent results too
-Always wear a respirator and proper eye protection while using wheels!
Check out the video below of the wheel in action. Tags: Cleaning, Pad, Wheel, Scuff, Scotch, Abrasive, Buff, Buffing, Scotch Brite Wheel, Scotch Brite Pad, Abrasive Wheel, Abrasive Pad, Buffing Wheel, Buffing Pad
These wheels are designed to be used on a buffing machine or bench grinder. They can be used on a machine with a 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4" shaft. For a buffing machine, you'll want at least a 1/2 HP motor that spins at 3450 or 3600 RPM. One with an extended shaft is best, so you have lots of clearance to buff your parts.
If you'll be doing lots of buffing, opt for a 3/4 HP motor. Also, a 2 speed (typically 1800/3600 RPM) machine offers more versatility and is a great option.
Personally, this is the machine I use (Baldor motor, will last a lifetime) Click Here
Some cheaper alternatives:
Eastwood Single Speed Click Here
Eastwood Dual Speed Click Here
Great Economy Buffer Click Here
If you have an existing machine but need the big washers that hold the wheels on Click Here
If you need spacers for the wheel Click Here
To extend the shaft on your buffer Click Here
To use the wheels on a drill Click Here
Lastly, whenever you're doing any sort of grinding or sanding you'll want to use eye and respiratory protection. Trust me, you do not want to be breathing in metal particles!
A great product for protecting yourself is this respirator Click Here
Alternatively, this is also a great respirator to pair up with safety glasses Click Here
Use these filters with the previously mentioned respirators Click Here
If you're doing lots of buffing, I'd recommend getting some sort of ventilation like this exhaust fan that I use Click Here
And of course, always a good idea to wear gloves Click Here
- Secure wheel to buffer shaft with a flange on either side. On 5/8 and 3/4 inch buffer shafts you may have to spin the wheel to help it onto the shaft.
- Tighten down the nut until the wheel is secure on the shaft and doesn’t spin (use a spacer if your nut bottoms out on the threads).
- Try to sand or buff in the same direction, try to buff in the length of the part. Intersecting scratches do not look good.
- Use light pressure with the wheel or you'll wear it out prematurely. If you need to apply heavy pressure, you’ll need to go to a more aggressive wheel.
- Buffing against the direction the wheel is spinning will cut quicker, buffing with the spinning of the wheel will give a smoother finish.
- In order to make the wheels last as long as possible, stay away from sharp edges. The direction of the wheel should be spinning away from an edge and not towards it. Adjust the orientation of the part accordingly.
- You can stack wheels on the buffer to achieve a more consistent finish, and to prolong the life of the wheels.
- To achieve a consistent brushed look on larger parts, take the wheel off the buffer and finish it by hand, going in the same direction you were buffing in.
- Always wear a respirator and eye protection when using the wheels!
Not sure what wheel you need? Use the Wheel Chart